Fur fashion inspiration through times.

The cooler weather not only dictates the way we think about dressing, it also affects our overall mood down to what we like to eat. Cozying-up becomes second nature during the winter months, from comfort foods to dressing oneself toasty-warm, which more often than not includes some kind of rich woolens and furs.

Portrait of Moritz, Buchner, c.1520 by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Sibylle von Kleve, c.1531, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Portrait of a Young Man, 1521, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

For all the fashion history buffs out there, looking at period costumes is not only fun and educational, it sheds a light on the clever practicality of the sartorial past too. Yes, central heating is a rather new development in the history of humanity; folks of yesteryear knew how to keep themselves warm and stylish, just as they do today, with a little help from the international fur trade.

Portrait of Dr. Johannes Scheyring, 1529, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Burberry – Fall 2011-Winter 2012

Portrait of Gerhart Volk, 1518, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Trapper hat trimmed in finnraccoon

Portrait of Dr. Johannes Cuspinian, 1502, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Gucci – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

For the privileged aristocratic and bourgeois set of 16th century southern Germany, while there was some practicality to fashion, it was also about presenting oneself in the ultra-luxe and distinctive looks of the day.  Fashion history is accustomed to looking to Western European examples as its style barometer, which is very French-centric. But asides the Courts of France, England or Italy, the southern German State of Saxony shined as brightly as any other courts and warranted some traffic-stopping looks.

Taufe Christi, 1556, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Portrait of a woman, 1539, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Jean Paul Gaultier – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Johannes Carion, c.1530, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Maison Martin Margiela – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Portrait of Katharina von Bora, 1529, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Some of the most distinct examples were undeniably chronicled by Lucas Cranach the Elder (4 October 1472 – 16 October 1553), court painter to Duke Friedrich III, “Frederick the Wise”, Elector of Saxony (17 January 1463 – 5 May 1525) and his successors. For fashion designers seeking inspiration for their cold-weather looks the Saxon Style is pure magic! It has enough details, fashion twists and decadence to fuel creativity for many designer collections.

Portraits of Henry the Pious, Duke of Saxony and his wife Katharina von Mecklenburg, 1514, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Portrait of Hans Luther, 1527, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Viktor & Rolf – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Portrait of a Young Woman, 1530, Lucas Cranach the Elder

Portrait of Johann the Steadfast, 1509, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Yves Saint Laurent – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

For designers looking to incorporate more fur into their designs, it is a true treasure-trove of beautiful and clever details, layered in textures and colors, and accented with some seriously jewelry.

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• Historical Influences in Fashion | The Garrick Coat
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Portrait of a Lady, 1528, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Céline – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

Magdelena of Saxony, 1529, by Lucas Cranach the Elder

BCBG by Maz Azria – Fall 2012-Winter 2013

The trend toward shorter lengths in fur

The Spring-Summer 2013 collections may have just ended, crowning trouser ensembles and ultra-feminine dresses as that season’s principal sartorial heroes. But as much as novelty rules fashion, historical antecedence always guides it in some form or another season after season.

Telephones became increasingly easier to operate over the years and inventions such as the Beoton telephone amplifier allowed office workers to type and make a phone call at the same time

Jerry Sorbara’s mink jacket. Photo by George Chinsee

Barbara Bui – fall 2012-winter 2013

Fashion Wheel game

Popular culture is fashion’s most potent aphrodisiac and ringleader, and in recent years AMC’s Mad Men has done much to revamp post-modern style from décor to wardrobe. This mid-century look, exemplified by Knoll furniture and short dresses is, itself, influencing the greater fashion picture.

AMC’s Mad Men is redefining the concept of secretarial style

It’s not hard to see where Mad Men costume designer Janie Bryant looked to source inspiration for Joan Holloway’s costumes on the show.

Dennis Basso’s lynx and lace vest. Photo by George Chinsee

Lois Maxwell played Miss Moneypenny in 14 James Bond films

The British newspaper, the Daily Mail, recently did a feature on the many looks of secretaries overtime and some of their iconic ‘features’; their misogynist objectification wasn’t lost on anyone, but what really typified the post-modern transitional style was the movement in the length of their garments.

ca. 1930, Berlin, Germany — Albert Einstein dictates a scientific paper to his secretary in his attic flat in Berlin. © Austrian Archives/CORBIS

With conical bra and cinched in waist, this Sixties secretary shows just how much women’s silhouettes – and fashions – have changed over the decades

A secretary exposes some thigh as she mans the phone at an advertising agency in Soho, London

Yes, shorter hems not only embraced the youth culture of the 1960′s, they reinvented how women wear types of garments altogether. And today, that same ideal is back at  the forefront….even in fur silhouettes.  Shorter furs are becoming much more prevalent in recent seasons than they have been ever before.

1965 mod-woman red dress at office files. © Ewing Galloway/ClassicStock/Corbis

Gabby Applegate’s rabbit tunic-coat. Photo by George Chinsee

As spring-summer 2013 collections testified, casual dressing is becoming a little more formal and formal dressing is becoming more democratic. Sportswear is going back to its roots, so to speak, and re-launching easy-to-wear pieces that are like fashion “master keys” that can work with almost everything.

Appropriate attire? A teenage girl gets to grips with the office equipment in a tiny skirt and white go-go boots

Gilles Mendel for J. Mendel’s mink jacket. Photo by George Chinsee

Short furs share that same versatility. They go with almost everything from eveningwear to jeans and t-shirts classics, regardless of age and social preconceptions. This style is also a great sartorial ally when it comes to remodeling an older fur.

Michael Kors’ fox jacket. Photo by George Chinsee

Zac Posen’s chinchilla and fox jacket. Photo by George Chinsee

Brandon Sun’s mink coat. Photo by George Chinsee

SOURCE furinsider.com