Back in the late 70s, early 80s, Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto and Hanae Mori made their nest in Paris, where their aesthetic not only took the City of Light by storm, it energized a new crop of designers to venture in new creative directions.
Atsuro Tayama may not be that well-known stateside, but in Paris, he is revered by many for his originality and talent. The Tayama aesthetic is complex, often combining architectural elements with beautiful tailoring to create an understated elegance.
This Fall 2012-Winter 2013 collection may not be that understated when you look at the fur pieces and applications he chose. This time around he may have injected a little futuristic vibe into his line-up, but his tailoring and cuts remain uncompromised.
What is fascinating about his work is how he makes seemingly bulky garments move as one with the body. Some of the pieces he delivered on the runway were imposing and brightly hued. These vivid touches complemented the quasi-black collection. From daywear to eveningwear, most pieces appear monochromatic, only the furs brought out color.
This time around, he overwhelmingly favored fox for its volume and movement, but also introduced a good amount of lamb shearling and pony skin, which he combined with soft leather. The various combinations made the garments move effortlessly and seemed to defy expectations.